Epoxy resin is a liquid polymer that hardens through a precise mixture of resin and hardener, in a general ratio of 2:1. For your creations, favour temperatures between 20 and 25°C to ensure optimum curing, while taking care to use appropriate protective equipment. If you need to rectify any imperfections, it's often simpler to pour a new coat of resin than to sand them down.
Have you bought your first epoxy resin and don't know where to start? Don't panic. In this guide, we explain everything you need to know: essential materials, good working conditions, step-by-step mixing and mistakes to avoid. Whether you want to create resin jewelry, decorations or DIY accessories, you've got all the keys you need to get started with peace of mind.
💡 This article focuses on epoxy casting resin. The process is identical for glazing resin. To choose the right resin for your project, see our article UV or epoxy resin: which type should you choose?
Epoxy resin is a liquid thermosetting polymer. To cure, two liquids must be mixed together. One contains the resin, the other a hardener. A chemical reaction then takes place. The resin heats up and hardens. The resin is said to catalyze. Quantities are generally 2 parts resin to 1 part hardener, but be sure to check your product's instructions first.
If there's too little or too much hardener, the resin will remain soft. So be sure to respect the recommended quantities. Most of the time, these quantities are measured in milliliters (ml) using a small graduated container.
In most resin packaging, you'll find two small graduated containers. Put the resin in one, and the hardener in the other. Then mix the two liquids in the recommended doses in a disposable cardboard cup, or in another special resin container that you've bought separately and can clean.
Be careful not to use plastic cups, as they may react chemically and melt. Similarly, mix with a wooden spatula like a popsicle stick.
Don't use containers and utensils that could be reused for food!!!
Mixing steps :
Stir the mixture gently, but evenly, so that the two liquids are perfectly blended. If you mix too quickly, you'll create even more bubbles.
You can then add the colorant. Please refer to our technical data sheet on the subject to choose the right colorant for your resin.
Some brands recommend that you leave the resin in the beaker for 15 minutes to allow the bubbles to rise. Then carefully pour the resin into the mold or hollow support. Gently tap the tray on the table to bring up the bubbles. You can also tap the mold with your finger.
Once the bubbles have risen to the surface, pass the flame of a lighter or gas-lighter over them to make them explode. Another more professional, but more expensive, technique is to place your mold in a vacuum chamber. This is a kind of pot in which a mechanism extracts the air. The air trapped in the resin will escape and there will be no more bubbles. This can be a worthwhile investment for professional use.
Leave the resin to catalyze for 48 h in the shade (the darker the better), away from dust and in a dry room. You can make yourself a tester to check that your resin is hard without damaging your creation: pour some resin into a disposable cup or extra mold. This way, you can touch it with a spatula and see whether the resin feels hard or soft.
Even when hard to the touch, the resin is still working. It has not yet stabilized. Wait 15 days before placing anything on it or exposing it to sunlight. In any case, if you want to slow down the yellowing of your creation as much as possible, don't expose it to direct sunlight. Modern epoxy resins are much more resistant to yellowing than they used to be, but it can still happen after several years or prolonged exposure to sunlight.


This is a very complicated step that's best avoided, especially without an electric sander and polisher. It's generally easier to re-cast a thin layer of resin to rectify imperfections. For example, resin tends to shrink and form a slight hollow in a mold. Re-cast resin to rectify this problem and avoid having to cut the edges with a scalpel and then sand. Apart from this problem, you will rarely need to cut and sand the resin when using a mold or hollow support.
If you still wish to cut off the excess edge with a cutter and sand, we recommend the following: Sand only after the resin has fully cured after 15 days. Sand with water. Get a basin and water-resistant abrasive paper. Start sanding with 120 grit in circular movements. Gradually reduce the grit to 3000. For polishing, use a polishing machine with a flannel tip, but you can also polish by hand. You can also use polishing clay. Generally speaking, those suitable for wood are also suitable for resin.

Resin can be cleaned off before it hardens with rubbing alcohol or acetone and a paper towel. Once hardened, resin is very difficult to remove from a porous surface, if not almost impossible, so you need to protect your work surface.
And now, what do we create? You're ready to get started! For inspiration, check out our 5 easy-to-make DIY epoxy and UV resin jewelry ideas, perfect for getting started with beautiful results from the very first attempts.



Between 20 and 25°C. Below 15°C, the resin does not catalyze well and may remain soft. The warmer the room, the faster it sets.
Mix gently, let stand for 15 minutes before pouring, tap the mold on the table, then quickly pass a lighter flame over the surface. For a perfectly clean result, a vacuum chamber is the most effective solution.
Allow at least 48 hours before unmolding. But the resin continues to work afterwards: wait a full 15 days before handling your creation intensively or exposing it to the sun.
Yes, prolonged exposure to UV light can cause yellowing, even with modern anti-UV resins. To preserve your creation, avoid exposing it to direct sunlight.






































































































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