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How to cut a fabric in the direction of the right thread?

Made by : Perles & Co
Published on the :22/10/2018
How to cut a fabric in the direction of the right thread?

How to respect the right wire?

In what way to cut the fabric?

When you start in sewing , it is not easy to know all the technical terms and put them into practice. In this technical sheet we will discuss the concept of straight wire . Essential concept to have a realization according to the pattern that you realize.

Before starting your sewing, learn to observe your fabric; What material is used, how is it made? Are the first questions that can be asked to position the different pieces of the pattern on the fabric.

Why respect the right wire?
The respect of this parameter in sewing, is not negligible, it makes it possible to have a garment or an accessory which falls well, and which is not deformed; the patterns of your fabric are aligned and give a clean rendering, it takes into account the elasticity of the fabric to facilitate actions or movements.

A fabric is usually made with the technique of weaving. It is composed of two types of threads that intersect:

  • Chain wire
  • Weft yarn

On a loom, the warp threads are stretched and the weft threads are woven perpendicularly. The edges of the fabric are the edges delimiting the width of a fabric. As Bizibul explains in the article to find the meaning of the fabric in our toolbox.

Reconnaître le fil de trame et le fil de chaîne dans un tissu

We present 3 methods to recognize the right wire.

1. Identify yourself with the edge of the fabric:
The straight line is parallel to the edge. Tip: On most fabrics in commerce, you will recognize at a glance these two elements; manufacturers register their name and logo with the colors used.

2. Test the elasticity of the fabric:
When the edges of the fabric are not indicated, you will be able to locate the right thread through the elasticity of the fabric by stretching it in both directions. The straight line is in the direction of the least supple and elastic fabric.

3. Identify yourself with the warp and weft threads:
As stated in the beginning of the article the fabric is mainly made with weft yarns and warp yarns. Near an angle, using a pin, pull a yarn from the weave. The absence of the wire will create a marking that will correspond to either the weft or the warp threads. The straight line will be parallel to the warp.

Comment couper votre tissu dans le droit fil ?

Small note: The right wire

  • is parallel to the edge of the fabric
  • is parallel to the warp
  • is in the less elastic sense of the fabric
  • is in the length of the fabric.

Now that you know how to recognize the right yarn in a fabric, you can go to the next step, cutting a pattern or consult our technical sheet how to start sewing in our toolbox.

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Which material to use ?
Please note that the quantities of the suggested equivalents are not necessarily exact. You can adjust them in your basket.
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Scissors 25cm x1
SEW-336
Qty : 1
13 in stock
6,40€
Your questions (1)
You have a question about this sheet? Ask our team and the people who have already tested it. The Perles & Co community is here to help!
By Christelle (20/11/2024 04:56:17)
En quoi sert les Godet et les plit❓
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Our Tiffanie J. expert answers you (20/11/2024 08:47:30)
Bonjour, les godets et les plis sont des techniques utilisées en couture pour donner du style ou ajuster la forme d’un vêtement. Les godets, ce sont des morceaux de tissu en forme de triangle ou de trapèze qu’on insère dans une couture, souvent en bas d’un vêtement comme une jupe ou une robe. Ils servent à apporter de l’ampleur et un effet évasé, ce qui donne une belle fluidité et une allure élégante, idéale pour les robes dansantes ou les jupes vintage.
Les plis, quant à eux, sont des parties du tissu qu’on replie sur elles-mêmes et qu’on maintient avec une couture. Ils permettent soit de structurer le vêtement et de lui donner du volume, comme sur une jupe plissée ou une chemise, soit d’ajuster la coupe, par exemple pour mieux marquer la taille. Ils peuvent aussi être simplement décoratifs.
Respecter le droit fil est important dans ces cas, car c’est ce qui garantit que le tissu tombe correctement et que l’effet visuel recherché est bien réussi, sans déformation. Voilà pourquoi c’est essentiel de bien repérer le droit fil quand on travaille avec ces techniques !
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Perles & Co, Internet & E-Commerce company [22/10/2018] Any reproduction, representation, adaptation, in any form whatsoever, even partial, is prohibited, except for reproduction for private use not intended for collective use, representation in the family circle (art. L 122-5 CPI) and online publishing on condition that the source is mentioned and a link is included to the corresponding page of our site www.perlesandco.com.