For beading loom weaving, you'll need a suitable loom, uniform beads such as Miyuki Delica, and appropriate weaving thread. With these materials, you’ll be able to create bracelets, necklaces, and pouches with precision and ease, and your choice of beads will influence the quality of your patterns.
In this technical sheet, discover the tips you need to know and the list of supplies to get started with bead weaving. You can make your own bracelets woven with Miyuki Delica beads, necklaces, and even pouches made from seed beads! Check out the complete list of supplies used for the 4-row Miyuki bracelet made on a beading loom, which was used as an example.
The setup depends on the loom. For this classic loom, the pegs on the wooden logs will be used to hold the thread in place. Make sure the logs are securely screwed in and do not move. The nails should be tilted slightly downward. Leave the thread on its spool and tie one end to one of the nails.
Warps and weft: The warps are the threads attached to the loom, and the weft is the thread that holds the beads and will pass under and over the warps.
Thread the string over the bars with the springs, making sure it is at the same level on both sides of the bar. Wrap the thread around the pin on the other side, then go back to the other side and wrap the thread around the first pin, and so on until you have one more thread than the number of beads in a row. So if you’re making a bracelet 4 beads wide, you’ll need 5 strands. Cut the thread, leaving 10 cm, and tie a knot.
Take the end of the thread from the spool and pull it out until you have a length equal to the span of your arms. Once folded in half through the needle, this length allows for comfortable weaving. Tie one end of this thread to one of the warp threads on the side using a double knot, leaving at least 15 cm of thread hanging. Then thread your first row of beads. Pass the needle under the warp threads and slide each bead between two threads using your finger.
Pass the needle back through the beads, taking care to go over the warp threads; otherwise, your beads will not be secured. Tighten the weave and realign the beads.
All other rows of beads are made in the same way.
If you notice a mistake in your weaving (wrong bead color or you didn’t pass the needle correctly under and over the warp threads) and want to correct it, you’ll need to undo what you’ve woven up to the mistake. To remove a woven row, take the needle out of the thread and use it to pull the loops formed by the weft thread on the sides of the weave.
When you have only 10–15 cm of thread left, pass the needle back through the last row of beaded beads, tie a knot using the warp thread, then pass through the second-to-last row, the last row, and bring the needle out through one of the center beads of the second-to-last row. Cut the thread as short as possible. Take a new piece of thread and tie it to a warp thread as well, leaving a 15 cm tail. Do the same as before with the 15 cm tail, change the thread on the needle, and continue weaving.
Once your weaving is finished, remove it from the loom, being careful not to unravel it by pulling too hard on the threads. Cut the loops in half so that you have 6 threads to tuck into the weave on each side.
There are many finishing methods. The method described here involves tucking and securing the threads within the weave, keeping both ends of the weft thread to attach the 925 Sterling Silver clasp.
To weave the threads into the fabric, thread a needle through one of them, pass it through the last few rows of beads, then pull it back out through a bead in the middle of a row before cutting it. You can apply a small amount of white glue (such as Cleotoo) with a brush to the edge of the weave to prevent the threads from coming loose.
Thread the weft thread onto the needle and pass it behind the inner bars of the clasp, then pass it back through the last row from the other side. Make a second loop, then a third if possible.
Secure the thread in the weave and cut it, then repeat this step with the other end of the thread on the opposite side of the bracelet.
Here are some tutorials showing other types of finishes:
And there are many other finishing options! Be sure to check out our weaving endcaps and clasps!
You can also find the technical guide “Choosing Beads for LoomWeaving and Attaching a Spacer to Your Weave.”
No, brick stitch is a hand-woven needle-weaving technique done row by row, without a loom. The small patterns created this way (animals, shapes) can then be assembled into charms or pendants, separate from any loom-woven piece.
A basic metal loom, like the one shown in this guide, is ideal for creating small- to medium-sized items (bracelets, small pouches). For longer pieces, such as a bag handle, or other large items, it’s best to opt for a large loom, which ensures better tension along the length of the thread.
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