Set in soutache and PureCrystal crystals

How to make soutache jewelry

How to sew soutache?

Discover PureCrystal contest winner Magali Lamothe's sublime ensemble combining soutache, PureCrystal, Miyuki and daggers! We'll show you step-by-step how to make a jewel from soutache and PureCrystal crystals !

Tips and tricks from the designer before you start:

• When cut, soutache flakes. To avoid this, put glue where you want to cut it, wait for it to dry a little and cut in the middle.
• Poutache has a "meaning". Indeed, when you hold a strand, you can see that the fibers go to the left (or to the right). For a more aesthetic effect, try to ensure that all your strands run in the same direction.
• Sewing is done symmetrically: first sew one side, then the other.
• Always hold the soutache strands firmly together for a smoother seam.
• Use thread that matches your soutache or, to make sure it doesn't show, transparent nylon thread. Don't use too long a thread, or you'll end up with knots.
• Tie a triple knot at the end before starting. If you run out of thread, go back through the soutache several times, exit on the reverse and cut, leaving 1 or 2 cm of thread protruding. Then continue with a new thread.
• Trim excess soutache as you go, but not too close to the edge. Apply a dot of glue to prevent fluffing.
• Some of the supplies used to make the set have been replaced by similar ones.

STEP 1:
Place the 30x22 mm cabochon upside down on a piece of Lacys. Mark the outline with a pencil or pen. Roughly copy the patterns on the back of the cabochon.
Use a cutter to score the Lacys in the place of the cabochon, so that it follows the contours of the cabochon more closely.
Glue the cabochon to the Lacys with E6000 and leave to dry.
Do the same with the 8 mm cabochons. However, leave only a few millimeters of Lacys around the cabochon.

ETAPE 2 : The earrings
The images shown here were made with beige and blue soutache. To match the necklace, replace only the blue soutache with coral soutache and the blue bicones with pink bicones.
Cut 3 strands of beige soutache and 1 strand of coral soutache, each 30 cm long. Fold in 2 to mark the middle.
Sew into a circle about 2 cm in diameter (don't hesitate to use a template! Example: a spool of thread).

STEP 3:
Once your circle is formed, close it in on itself by sewing several times through the 8 layers of soutache. Pull out one side.
Insert 1 turquoise Miyuki, folding the 4 strands over. Sew through these 4 strands.
Press through soutache, Miyuki and circle.
Pull the needle out close to the Miyuki and repeat: 1 Miyuki, soutache then in reverse.
Insert 4 Miyuki.
Do the same on the other side.

STEP 4:

After inserting the 4 Miyuki, pull out the soutache and insert a pink bicone (A).
Fold the soutache over the bicone and stitch (B).
Reverse direction.
Pull out close to the pink bicone, insert a beige Miyuki and stitch into the remaining soutache. Iron in the opposite direction (C).
Do the same on the other side (D).

STEP 5:
Position the 8 mm cabochon at the top of the loop. Secure it with a few stitches in the Lacys and soutache (A and B).
Stitch the rest of the soutache around the cabochon to form a loop, which you secure by folding the soutache over to the reverse and stitching several times between 2 strands of soutache on the front.
Secure the cabochon by stitching several times in the Lacys and soutache.

STEP 6:
To fill the small holes, sew 3 beige Miyuki and 1 beige toupie around the cabochon (the toupie on top).

ETAPE 7 :
Cut a small piece of soutache and attach it to the back of the cabochon so you can attach your earring hook.

STEP 8:
On the circle, sew your bicones at regular intervals, starting at the bottom of the circle (to locate the middle more easily).
To do this, start at the top of the circle and stitch your way down through the soutache to the bottom.
Pull the needle out towards the outside of the circle. Insert 1 green bicone, then 1 beige Miyuki, and pass through the bicone again, then through the soutache.
In this way, go around the circle with 7 spinning tops, one side then the other, symmetrically.

STEP 9:
On the top of the circle, bring the needle out towards the inside, insert 1 beige Miyuki, 1 dagger then 1 other beige Miyuki. Stitch into the soutache opposite your entry point.
Work backwards to secure.

STEP 10:
Place your earring on a sheet of paper and draw its contours (only where you need to hide unsightly elements).
Transfer this shape to lultrasuede or leather matching your soutache.
If your shape is slightly larger than the earring, this doesn't matter - on the contrary, the excess will be useful for contouring and can be recut later if necessary.

STEP 11:

Apply glue to the lining and then to the earring.
(If there's too much relief, you can remove it by gluing a little padding in the "hollows" beforehand).
Leave to dry.

STEP 12:
Using a pair of very fine scissors, trim off any excess.
If any areas are poorly glued, use glue with a very fine tip.

STEP 13:

Put on an earring hook.

STEP 14:

Repeat steps 2 to 13 to make the second earring loop.

ETAPE 15 :

Setting the large cabochon (glued setting method, photos of illustrations made with a cabochon of the same dimensions but a different color).
Stitch into the Lacys, on the reverse, and come out as close as possible to the cabochon.
Thread 2 Miyuki beige 11/0 (A). Stitch into the Lacys, close to the last Miyuki and out close to the first. The beads must remain upright.
Iron in the 2 beads. String 2 new beads, thread into the Lacys close to the last bead and out between the 4 beads thus sewn (B).
Iron in the last 2 beads, thread 2 new beads and stitch close to the last bead.
Continue around the cabochon, stitching as close as possible to the cabochon, always threading 2 Miyuki beads at a time (there must be an even number of beads).
Once you've completed the turn, go back to the first bead (D).
If this first strand isn't perfect, don't panic - it'll be hidden by the soutache!

STEP 16:
To continue setting the cabochon, use the peyote technique: pass through 1 bead out of 2.
Take 1 beige Miyuki 11/0, pass through a bead of the 1st row (skipping one, you pass through the 2nd bead of the 1st row).
Insert a new bead, pass the needle through the 4th bead of the 1st row.
Insert a new bead, passing the needle through the 6th bead of the 1st row.
Continue in this way for the entire 2nd row.
When you've finished, pass the bead back through the first bead of the 2nd row.
Make a 3rd row of Miyuki following the same pattern.

STEP 17:
Insert 1 Miyuki 15/0, pass through the 2nd bead of the 3rd row.
Insert 1 bead, pass through the 4th bead of the 3rd row.
And so on all the way round.
Make a 5th row of 15/0 beads following the same pattern.
As the beads have a smaller diameter, the weave will "close" over the cabochon and hold it in place.

STEP 18:
Finally, weave through several beads in one direction and then the other, working your way down to the Lacys.
Stitch into the Lacys and secure with a knot.
Recut the excess Lacys, following the beads and taking care not to cut the thread!

ETAPE 19 : The necklace
Cut 5 pieces of beige soutache and 1 piece of coral, each 35 cm long.
Stitch into the soutache (the 6 strands at the same time or one after the other, but always starting from the middle, folding the strands in 2 to locate it) in the following order: 2 beige, 1 coral, 3 beige.
Iron through the 6 strands and stitch into the Lacys, between 2 beads, at the bottom of the cabochon.
Sew back up the cabochon, stitching into the soutache strands and into the Lacys, between two beads.

STEP 20:

Once you've sewn the 2 sides of the cabochon (try to go up as much as possible), go back and forth a few times through the 12 strands.
Conceal any gap between cabochon and soutache with a green bicone.
Pull out to one side.

STEP 21:

Insert 1 turquoise Miyuki and pass the needle through only the last 2 strands (the beige ones, the other 4 strands will be used later).
Pass back through the soutache, the Miyuki and through the 6 strands towards the Lacys.
Pull out close to the previous bead, insert 1 Miyuki and pass through the 2 strands.
Pass back through the 2 strands, the Miyuki and the 6 strands to the Lacys.
And so on until you reach the bottom. Do not recut excess soutache.

STEP 22:
Do the same on the other side and try to match the 2 sides as closely as possible in the middle.

STEP 23:
Fold the 2 strands back on themselves to form a loop, and stitch by passing the needle between 2 strands of soutache on the front to secure the loop thus formed (see photo step 5).

STEP 24:
At the top of the cabochon, 4 strands remain on each side (1 coral and 3 beige).
Sew them along the previous seam for about 1 cm (A), then insert a green bead.
Fold the remaining soutache over the bead and stitch through the 4 strands (B).
Pass back through the soutache and the bead (C).
Bring the needle close to the bead, insert a beige Miyuki and stitch through all 4 strands (D).
Sew for about 1 cm and fold the 4 strands over the reverse to form a loop. Secure by repeatedly passing between the strands of soutache (E) (see photo step 5).
Do the same on the other side.
In the end, there should be enough room to insert an 8 mm bead (even if you force it a little).

STEP 25:

Insert the 8 mm bead in the space left and sew it in place, passing several times through the soutache and the bead.
To conceal the small gaps left, sew 3 beige bicones, passing the needle between the strands.

STEP 26:
Cut 6 pieces of beige soutache, each 10 cm long.
Take 3 strands, start sewing them together at one end, then position them at the end of the previous loop. Secure.
Sew them following the curve around the green bead (obtained in step 24).
Form a loop by folding the strands towards the back. Secure (see photo, step 5).
Do the same on the other side with the other 3 strands.

STEP 27 :
To conceal small gaps, sew green bicones.

ETAPE 28 :
Cut 4 beige pieces, each 7 cm long.
Take 2 strands, stitch through the center about 1 cm from the bottom loop (obtained after sewing the turquoise Miyuki, step 23).
Sew on both sides, starting from the center and forming a loop at each end.
Total length should be about 2 cm.
Do the same on the other side with the remaining 2 strands.

STEP 29:
Cut 4 strands of beige soutache, each 9 cm long.
Sew them together into a large, flattened U-shape. The final dimension must fit between the 2 loops formed in the previous step.
Once the U is formed, attach it to the collar.

STEP 30:
Pass the needle through the soutache several times to bring it out just before the middle of the U.
Insert 1 beige bicone, 1 dagger and 1 other beige bicone.
Press back into the soutache. The bicones should be at a slight angle.
Pull out a little further and do the same.
Repeat the same steps on the other side for a total of 5 daggers.

STEP 31:
Cut 14 strands of beige soutache and 2 strands of coral soutache, each 15 cm long.
Sew back and forth through the soutache (in this order: 4 beige 1 coral 1 beige), forming an L and holding the soutache firmly.
Your L should go from the little loop at the bottom (obtained in step 27) to the green bead (obtained in step 24).
At this green bead, insert a pink bead, fold the 3 beige strands over the bead and fold over the back of the necklace.
Continue sewing as before with the remaining 5 strands (4 beige 1 coral) until a loop is formed (see photo).
Make the 2nd L (note that it will be in the other direction!).

STEP 32:
Cut 6 beige strands, each 10 cm long.
At the base of the pink bead, stitch through the soutache, insert 1 turquoise Miyuki and then through 3 strands (about 1 cm from one end).
Pass back through the soutache and Miyuki.
Come out very close to the Miyuki and do as before.
Continue around the bead until you reach the beige and coral L loop.
Insert a beige bicone, fold the 3 strands over the bicone (passing slightly over the previous loop) and stitch.
Pass through the soutache and bicone again.
Attach the excess soutache to the back.
Do the same on the other L.

STEP 33:
Cut 6 beige strands, each 10 cm long.
Start sewing 3 strands on one end.
Position them at the end of the previous loop and sew along the curve.
Once you've reached the bottom (soutache touching the L), insert a green bead; fold the remaining soutache over the bead, stitch through the soutache and iron through the soutache and bead.
Fold the excess over the back and fasten.
Do the same on the other L.

STEP 34:
Attach the 2 Ls to the collar by repeatedly passing between the strands of soutache (see photo step 5).

ETAPE 35 :
Cut 4 beige strands, each 34 cm long.
Take 2 strands. Fold in 2.
Pass a ring through to the end of the fold.
Stitch the 4 layers several times to secure the ring.
Pull the needle out to the middle of the 4 strands, insert 1 turquoise bead, pass through the other 2 strands and repeat the process in the opposite direction.
Return to the middle of the 4 strands and repeat the operation: bead soutache in the opposite direction.
Repeat for 15 cm.
Finish by stitching all 4 strands at the same time.
Do the same with the other 2 strands of 34 cm.

STEP 36:
Attach the "strips" obtained in the previous step to the collar (see photo step 5).

STEP 37:
Repeat steps 10 to 12 to double your collar.

ETAPE 38 :
Place a hook on the ring.

Your set is finished! We love to see your creations, so don't hesitate to send us your photos on our Facebook page or tag us on Instagram with #PerlesandCo!

NB: Please note that the list of products below does not fully correspond to the presentation photo. For stock reasons, some products in this tutorial have been replaced by equivalents. Fabric Cement strong glue has been replaced by G-S Hypo Cement strong glue.