PVD-Coated Gold-Toned Stainless Steel: Durability and Benefits

A piece of gold-plated stainless steel jewelry that retains its color even when worn every day: that’s the promise of PVD coating. How does it work, how is it different from gold plating, and how long does it really last? Here’s what you need to know to choose your gold-plated stainless steel jewelry.

What is PVD?

PVD stands for Physical Vapor Deposition. This acronym refers to a metallization method that involves the physical deposition of vapor through sputtering. A metal is vaporized in a vacuum and then deposited atom by atom onto the parts being treated, forming a very thin, highly adherent layer. This technique originated in industry and watchmaking, where it is used to color and protect watch cases. Today, it is widely used for gold-plated stainless steel jewelry.

How does the PVD process work?

There are several specific techniques for applying a PVD coating:

• vapor deposition: This method is also known as “vacuum evaporation.” It involves depositing a thin, uniform layer of metal onto a product in a vacuum using vapor. This process allows for precise control of the coating ’s thickness.
• sputtering: Microscopic particles are projected onto an object to coat it with a new layer. These particles are drawn to the jewelry, forming a very thin and uniform layer on its surface. This technique is known for its ability to produce highly adherent and uniform coatings on a wide range of materials
• Ionization or ion beam assistance: Instead of using simple particles, ions (atoms with a small electrical charge) are used to “bombard” the surface of the jewelry. This bombardment does two things: it compacts and smooths the coating so that it is stronger and adheres better, and it removes small imperfections so that the coating is as flawless as possible. Ion beam assistance makes it possible to densify the coating, improve its adhesion, and reduce defects by bombarding the substrate with ions during the deposition process.

Many metals can be deposited using PVD (in fact, virtually all elements of the periodic table in their solid state). Typically, titanium and chromium are used as bases due to their high corrosion resistance. They are then coated with a layer of precious metal, such as gold, or metal alloys. The entire process is carried out in vapor form.
The process uses neither chemical baths nor water discharge, unlike traditional electroplating.

Why is stainless steel well-suited for PVD?

PVD can be applied to various metals and alloys that can withstand the pressure. But it is particularly effective on stainless steel.
Stainless steel is hard and stable: the titanium nitride layer adheres directly to it, without the need for a primer. On softer metals such as brass or zamak, an additional bonding layer is required, which increases the cost of the treatment. And if the gold plating wears off, the stainless steel underneath is exposed—not a metal that turns black or green.

The thickness of this coating on the stainless steel products we sell is not specified by the manufacturer. It can vary from 0.01 to several microns.
In the case of a steel base, the applied layer is titanium nitride (TiN). The golden hue remains stable: it does not flake off, and even if it may lighten slightly, it retains its golden appearance without taking on a silvery tint.

PVD: How Does It Work?

The entire process takes place in a vacuum chamber—a kind of sealed, airtight metal chamber. Inside this chamber is a rotating rack on which frames are mounted to hold the items to be coated.

Once the items are hung, the chamber is sealed, then evacuated of nearly all its air to reach a pressure of one hundred-millionth of atmospheric pressure and prevent the presence of impurities. Next, the deposition phase begins: the process gas is released through the chamber’s side walls. The carousel rotates at a steady pace, allowing the coating to be evenly applied and distributed over the products. When the process is complete, the frames are removed, followed by the items.

What are the advantages of PVD?

• A wide range of colors can be achieved. The sputtering process allows for different hues, depending on the reactive gases and temperatures used.
• Ion plating is a clean and environmentally friendly process. It is more environmentally friendly than electroplating. Unlike the electrolysis process, the PVD coating process is non-toxic. It requires no baths, no chemicals, no water consumption, and produces no gas emissions or other waste.
• The product becomes more durable. The product’s properties are not compromised. On the contrary! Its durability and strength are enhanced thanks to titanium nitride, a hard, corrosion-resistant metallic compound. PVD is much more durable than conventional electroplating, though it is more expensive.

A quick reminder: What is electroplating? Sometimes incorrectly referred to as galvanization, electroplating is a method of plating by electrolysis. This method uses an electric current passing through a liquid bath to coat a metal object with a thin layer of precious metal or a metal alloy.

PVD, flash plating, gold plating, Gold Filled: what are the differences?

How long does PVD-gold-plated stainless steel last?

There is no guaranteed lifespan: it all depends on how it’s used. A pendant lasts much longer than a ring or bracelet, which are constantly rubbing against other surfaces. Over time, the color may lighten slightly in the areas that see the most wear, without revealing any blackened metal. The coating can also become scratched when it comes into contact with hard or abrasive objects.

The main causes of wear on PVD gold plating are:
• repeated friction (rings, bracelets, clasps);
• abrasive or acidic substances (vinegar, lemon, household cleaners);
• impacts against hard surfaces.

Want to learn more about stainless steel? Check out our guide and technical data sheets to learn all about its specific characteristics. In fact, each product page clearly states whether the piece of jewelry is made of PVD-gold-plated stainless steel or not. All you have to do is browse our selection of findings and components to get started on your creations!