The hallmark is a discreet mark on a piece of jewelry that guarantees its precious metal content, such as gold, silver or platinum. There are different types of hallmarks, including maker's hallmarks and title hallmarks, which vary according to metal and quality. For Gold, the eagle head is the most common hallmark, while the Minerva head is emblematic for Silver.
Have you found a small, discreet mark on your bracelet, ring or necklace and don't know what it means? Do you make your own jewelry in silver or gold and wonder which markings are compulsory?
The hallmark is a precious metal jewel's identity card. It guarantees the metal content, traces the origin of the piece and protects both buyer and manufacturer. In France, its presence is regulated by law - and once you know the codes, reading it quickly becomes a reflex.
In this article, we explain everything you need to know: the different types of hallmarks, their shape, what they guarantee, and how to recognize them on gold, silver, platinum and gold plating.
A hallmark is a discreet mark left on a piece of jewelry. This mark is struck by a tool bearing the same name.
It's a way of guaranteeing the precious metal content. And there are several of them, for Gold, Silver and Platinum.
Each piece of gold, silver or platinum may bear two hallmarks, located side by side:
To find out everything you need to know about your obligations as a manufacturer or retailer, consult our Infosheet Obligations for the sale of precious metal jewelry.
Guarantee hallmarks are affixed manually, or by laser with authorization:
Hallmarks are not always located in the same place. Sometimes you need a magnifying glass to distinguish them.
Please note: if there's no hallmark on your jewel, it doesn't mean it's a fake. Some jewels are exempt from hallmarking:
You may not see any marks on antique or second-hand jewelry. This is because time has taken its toll, and wear from acidic skin, rubbing or sweat can cause the hallmark to disappear.
The best-known and most common hallmark is the eagle's head. But there isn't just one hallmark for gold, there are several depending on the gold content of the jewel.
Please note: for white gold, the hallmarks are the same as for yellow gold.
| 24K | For pure gold, present on ingots. It is rarely used on jewelry, as it is too soft. Only the office of guarantee is authorized to affix it. It is sometimes replaced by the number 999. |
| 22K | This is a title hallmark, and is therefore affixed by the warranty office. It applies only to new pieces weighing 3 g or more. |
| 18K | This is a title hallmark, and is therefore affixed by the warranty office. It applies only to new pieces. |
| 18K | This is a guarantee hallmark, which manufacturers can affix themselves within the framework of the hallmark delegation. It is the most common hallmark for both new and second-hand jewelry. It guarantees French origin. |
| 18K | Guarantees second-hand jewelry of foreign or uncertain origin. |
| 14K | For both new and used jewelry. |
| 9K | For both new and pre-owned jewelry |
Please note: precious metal jewelry is also subject to REACH regulations on chemical substances. Find out more about REACH regulations and what they mean for your creations.
For silver, the best-known and most commonly used hallmark is the Minerva head. But silver also has several hallmarks, depending on the silver content of your jewelry.
(introduced in 2002) | guaranteed grade: 999/1000 | This hallmark applies to pure silver, and can be seen in particular on ingots. It is very rare on jewelry. |
Minerve head hallmark 1st grade (introduced in 1973) | guaranteed grade: 925/1000 | This is a title hallmark, and is therefore affixed by the warranty office. The number 925 indicates 925 Sterling Silver. |
| guaranteed grade: 800/1000 | This is a hallmark of title, and is therefore affixed by the warranty office. |
| guaranteed grade: 800/1000 | This is a guarantee hallmark, and can be applied by manufacturers. It is the most common, and applies to both new and second-hand creations, provided they are of French origin. |
| guaranteed grade: 800/1000 | This mark is used for imported second-hand items of unknown or uncertain origin. |
Not only gold and silver, platinum also has different hallmarks. For platinum, the best-known and most widely used is the Dog's Head.
Emperor Penguin hallmark | guaranteed grade: 999/1000 | For pure platinum, as seen on ingots. |
| guaranteed grade: 950/1000 | This is a title hallmark, and is therefore affixed by the warranty office. |
| guaranteed grade: 900/1000 | This is a title hallmark, and is therefore affixed by the warranty office. |
| grade : 850/1000 | This is a title hallmark, and is therefore affixed by the warranty office. |
| guaranteed grade: 850/1000 | This is a guarantee hallmark, which manufacturers can affix themselves, following the delegation of precious metals certification. |
| guaranteed grade: 850/1000. | For second-hand jewelry, of French origin or of unknown or uncertain origin |
For gold- and silver-plated jewelry, the master hallmark is a square for items manufactured in France or imported from a member state of the European Union.
This square hallmark features various inscriptions. The initials of the manufacturer are usually included.
For gold plating, there may, for example, be a number to indicate the thickness of the plating or the weight of gold used, or the letter G for "galvanic gilding".
For silver plating, there is often a number. This indicates the amount of silver used to plate the jewel.
Gold- and silver-plated jewelry, on the other hand, do not have a guarantee hallmark.
The European hallmark, known as the CCM (Common Control Mark), stems from the Vienna Convention. It was created to facilitate the international circulation of precious metal jewelry between signatory countries. It takes the form of a scale, surrounded by a geometric pattern specific to each metal, with a number indicating the metal's title, i.e. its purity.
This hallmark is recognized in all countries that have signed the Convention. Jewelry bearing it can therefore circulate without having to be inspected or hallmarked again by the country of arrival.This explains why some jewellery imported from Europe does not bear the traditional French hallmarks, such as the eagle's head for gold or the Minerva head for silver, even though it is perfectly compliant.
The most common titles with the CCM hallmark:
If you buy or resell jewelry from Germany, the Netherlands, Austria or the Nordic countries, you will very often come across this "balance" hallmark in place of the traditional French hallmarks.
A hallmark can be read in two stages: firstly, the shape (diamond = French manufacturer, oval = importer, animal or plant symbol = warranty), then the pattern that identifies the metal and its title. A magnifying glass is often needed to distinguish them. In case of doubt, the nearest warranty office can help you identify them.
The eagle's head is the most common hallmark on gold jewelry made or sold in France. It certifies a gold content of 750/1000 (18 carats). This is the hallmark you'll find on the vast majority of French yellow and white gold rings, necklaces and bracelets.
The master hallmark (or maker's hallmark) identifies the person or company who made the jewelry. It is diamond-shaped and contains the manufacturer's initials. The guarantee hallmark, on the other hand, certifies the precious metal content: it tells you whether your jewelry is made of 18K gold, 925 Sterling Silver or other materials. The two hallmarks are often found side by side on the same piece.
A piece of 925 Sterling Silver jewelry usually bears the Minerva head 1st designation, which guarantees a 925/1000 grade. You can also see the number 925 engraved directly on the piece. This is the most common grade for silver jewelry.
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Seahorse hallmark
Eagle head hallmark 1st title
Eagle head hallmark 3rd title
Eagle head hallmark
Owl hallmark (introduced in 1994)
Scallop hallmark (introduced in 1994)
Three-leaf clover hallmark
Minerve head hallmark 2nd grade
Minerve head hallmark (introduced in 1994)
Swan hallmark (introduced in 1919)
Dog head hallmark 1st grade
Dog head hallmark 2nd title
Dog head hallmark 3rd title
Dog head hallmark
Mascaron or bearded man's head hallmark