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Which chain stitch to choose?

Made by : Perles & Co
Published on the :14/09/2026
Which chain stitch to choose?
In summary

This guide lists the different types of chain links used in jewelry, including options in gold-plated, 925 Sterling Silver, stainless steel, Gold Filled, and brass. Each chain style—such as the trace, jaseron, or gourmette—has unique characteristics that suit a variety of styles, allowing you to choose the one that best meets your jewelry needs.

Guide to Chain Link Types in Jewelry

Trace, jaseron, figaro, omega… There are so many names, it’s easy to get confused! Yet choosing the right chain link style makes all the difference: the look, comfort, and durability of your jewelry depend on it.

Each link shape creates a unique style. This guide will help you identify the different chain links, whether you’re just starting out with DIY jewelry or already creating your own pieces.
Many of you have asked us about this, so we’ve decided to put together this handy guide listing all the chain link styles available on our site.
You’ll find chains in gold-plated, 925 Sterling Silver, stainless steel, Gold Filled, and brass.

Note: You’ll notice that some links are labeled “polished.” This simply means that the links have been polished to create a shiny mirror-like finish.

Link Style

Appearance

Key Points

Trace

Round rings linked together

The classic style

Jaseron (Belcher)

Even, simple links

Simple and easy to wear

Cuff bracelet

Slightly flattened and twisted links

Lays flat when worn, very popular with men

Horse

Elongated, flattened links

More open than the chain bracelet

Rectangle

Long, flat links

Trendy, for men and women

Figaro

Alternating small and large links

Available in 3/1 and 1/1

Navy

Oval links connected by a bar

Flat or rounded version

Ball

Balls connected by wire or rings

Special clasp to close it

Rope

Small rings interlocked in a spiral

Spinning effect

Venetian

Cubic links

Sturdy and understated

Serpentine

Reptilian, scaly appearance

Semi-rigid; avoid wearing with a heavy pendant

Omega

Stacked round discs

Semi-rigid

The Trace chain

maille forcat

Inspired by the chains used to link convicts together, the Trace chain is a timeless classic in jewelry.
It is characterized by its round links connected to one another.
The corners of the links can be rounded or square.
Discover our Forçat chain collections.

The Jaseron Chain

chaine maille jaseron

The construction of this chain is very similar to that of the Trace chain, except that the linked rings alternate between round and oval.
Its main characteristic is that each link is made of half-round wires.

Discover our Jaseron-link chains.

Gourmette Chain

chaine maille gourmette

As its name suggests, this type of chain is used to make bracelet chains.
Its distinctive feature is its simple, more or less round, slightly flattenedlinks, which interlock thanks to a twist at their junctions.
The chain is therefore flat when worn and has an open weave.
The gourmette chain is particularly popular with men.

Discover our gourmette chain collections.

Horse Link

chaine maille cheval

The construction of this chain is similar to both the curb chain and the Figaro chain.
In fact, the horse-link chain consists of a series of simple, elongated, and flattened rings.
This chain is even more open than the curb chain. It lies flat when worn because the links interlock at their joints through a twisted design.

Discover our horse-link chains.

Rectangle Link

Chaine maille rectangle

Ultra-trendy, it’s the fashionista’s favorite chain! The rectangle chain is made up of long, flat rectangular links. With its unique design, it appeals to both men and women.
It can be worn on its own with just an XXL clasp, or as part of a layered necklace look by mixing fine chains, bead necklaces, and chunky-link chains.
When the links are thin and elongated, the chain is sometimes called a “trombone” chain.

Discover our rectangular link chains.

The Alternating Figaro Chain

chaine maille figaro

Also known as the alternating link, there are several types of Figaro links.
The most common is the 3/1 Figaro link, similar to the horse-rider chain; the Figaro chain is distinguished by the alternation of three small links between each large link.
There is also the 1/1 Figaro chain, which is distinguished by the alternation of one large link and one short link. Just like the curb chain, it is very popular with men.

Discover our Figaro chain styles

The Rombo Chain

It consists of a series of elongated, flattenedoval links.
It lies flat when worn because the links interlock at their joints through a twisted design.

Discover our Rombo-link chains

The Marine Chain

chaine maille marine

Also known as the Hermès chain, this chain—inspired by ship anchors —lives up to its name.
It consists of oval links with a bar running through the center of each one.
It’s available in both flat and rounded versions.

Discover our marine link chains

Note that all the chains mentioned above can be easily attached using open rings.

The Ball Chain

chaine maille boule

As the name suggests, this chain consists of beads connected by sections of wire or rings.
The size of the wire, the beads, and the spacing between the beads can vary.
When made in a fine gauge, this chain is particularly well-suited for women’s jewelry.
The ball chain requires a special clasp to close it.

Discover our ball chain collections.

Cord Chain

As its name suggests, it resembles a rope; when it is round, it is also called a twisted chain.
The distinctive feature of the rope chain is that it consists of small rings interlocked at an angle, creating a twisting effect along the chain.

Ear of Wheat Chain

chaine maille épis

The links in this chain are arranged one after another, like ears of wheat.
This results in sturdy and elegant chains.
Note that the links are not soldered but interlock directly.

Discover our Epis-link chains.

The Singapore Link

chaine maille singapour

Consists of filed rings that are more or less interlocked with one another.
As with the rope weave, the way the links interlock gives the chain a twisting effect.

Check out our Singapore-link chains.

The Serpentine Chain

chaine maille serpentine

Also known as the Serpent chain, it resembles a snake and has the scaly appearance of reptile skin.
The chain can be either flat or round.
These semi-rigid links look particularly striking as a choker.
Avoid bending it or attaching pendants that are too heavy.
This chain requires a crimp end or cord clasp to fasten it.

Discover our serpentine chain collection.

Venetian Link

chaine maille venitienne

Sturdy, understated, and modern, the distinctive feature of the Venetian link is that it’s made up of cubic links.

Discover our Venetian link chains.

Omega Link

chaine maille omega

Made up of overlapping round discs, this chain is semi-rigid.

Discover our Omega-link chains.

Rice Grain / Paloma Chain

chaine maille grain de riz paloma

Made up of small beads connected by an invisible pin.
The number and size of the beads vary along a row depending on the chain.
When there is only one row, it is called a Paloma chain.

Discover our Paloma-link chains.

The Palm Weave

The palmier weave is created using a 3D braiding technique with multiple strands.

The English Chain

These are oval links that are slightly flattened and tightly packed together.
This gives the chain a braided look that’s very comfortable to wear.

Fancy Weave

chaines mailles fantaisie

These are all other chain styles not listed in jewelry that, as their name suggests, feature decorative designs.

Discover our fancy-link chains.

The Railroad Link

chaine maille chemin de fer

As the name suggests, it resembles railroad tracks.
These links are created by bending the wires to achieve this look.

Discover our railroad-link chains.

Chevron Chain

chaine maille épi

This type of chain is a decorative chain pattern consisting of interlocking chevron shapes.

Discover our chevron-in-spike chain.

Heart Link

chaine maille coeur

A lovely sequence of hearts—either in a trace style or flattened—this decorative chain will allow you to create original jewelry.
Discover our heart-link chains.

How to Choose the Right Chain for Your Project?

Before making your decision, ask yourself three questions: what do you want to attach to it, how will the piece be worn, and how will you fasten it?

  • A necklace with a pendant: opt for a thin, flexible chain, such as a trace, jaseron, or Venetian chain. Avoid attaching a heavy pendant to a semi-rigid chain.
  • A charm bracelet: Choose a chain with clearly visible links (Trace, jaseron, curb, or rectangular). You can easily attach your charms to it using open jump rings.
  • Beads strung directly onto the chain: the chain’s diameter must be less than or equal to the smallest hole in your beads. If the hole measures 0.8 mm, choose a chain no wider than 0.8 mm.
  • A trendy layered look: the rectangle link pairs very well with fine chains and bead necklaces.
  • Men’s jewelry: curb links and 1/1 figaro links are particularly popular.

Now that you know all about chains and their links, you can create your own unique jewelry.
Don’t miss our free tutorials if you’re feeling uninspired.
Go ahead and make your own multi-strand necklaces, anklets, bracelets, and totally trendy earrings.

Result
Schema  Which chain stitch to choose?
Schema  Which chain stitch to choose?
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Please note that the quantities of the suggested equivalents are not necessarily exact. You can adjust them in your basket.
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Your questions (6)
You have a question about this sheet? Ask our team and the people who have already tested it. The Perles & Co community is here to help!
By H.M. (16/09/2026 12:03:07)
Is there a difference between a jasseron and a belcher chain? And if so what is it? If there is no difference, why don't you mention in this sheet that jasseron also known is as belcher? Many thanks in advance!
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Our Lucie expert answers you (17/09/2026 10:25:45)
Hello, there is no difference between a Jasseron chain and a Belcher chain: they are exactly the same type of link.
‘Jasseron’ is the term used in French, whilst ‘Belcher’ is the English equivalent. We will add this information to our English-language product pages to make it clearer.
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By Elodie (20/03/2025 10:45:32)
Bonjour, je voudrais faire des bracelets agrémenter de breloque (feuille, fleur...)
Quelle type de chaîne en acier inox me recommandez vous ? Ainsi que le type de fermoir en acier inox ?
Je vous remercie.
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Our Tiffanie expert answers you (21/03/2025 14:33:16)
Bonjour, je vous conseille ce bracelet chaîne tout fait sur lequel vous pourrez facilement ajouter des breloques : http://perlesandco.com/tutoriels/t37572-bracelet-charms-automne.html
https://www.perlesandco.com/tutoriels/t36872-bracelet-fruits.html 
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By Florian (12/04/2024 23:25:55)
Bonjour , comment couper une chaine maille Paloma? Et quelle colle conseillez -vous pour coller les embouts ? Merci
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Our Laurence T. expert answers you (15/04/2024 09:03:15)
Bonjour, Tout dépend de la matière de votre chaîne maille Paloma. Pour une chaîne en acier inoxydable, nous vous conseillons d'utiliser une pince coupante pour les fils difficiles : https://www.perlesandco.com/pince-coupante-pour-fil-memoire-coupe-droite-x1-p-7812.html et pour une chaîne avec une matière plus traditionnelle (laiton, argent...), vous pouvez utiliser une pince coupante classique : https://www.perlesandco.com/pince-coupante-a-ressort-15.5-cm-coupe-droite-manche-ergo-by-perlesco-x1-p-552812.html
Pour coller les embouts, vous pouvez utiliser cette colle extra forte : https://www.perlesandco.com/colle-cyanolit-super-unick-force-express-instantanee-transparent-x3gr-p-380431.html
 
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By Laurence (11/04/2024 10:12:48)
Bonjour,
Je souhaiterai acheter une chaine en acier inoxydable sur laquelle je pourrai combiner avec des perles(perles tchèques rondes, spacer miyuki etc...) que me conseillez vous?
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Our Laurence T. expert answers you (15/04/2024 10:09:26)
Bonjour, si vous souhaitez enfiler directement les perles sur la chaîne, il faut prendre en compte le plus petit diamètre de trou des perles. Ainsi, vous pourrez déterminer le diamètre de la chaîne. Par exemple, si le plus petit diamètre du trou des perles mesure 0.8 mm, il faudra choisir une chaîne en acier inoxydable de 0.8 mm de diamètre.
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By VALÉRIE (20/10/2023 14:36:53)
Bonjour, j'ai l'habitude d'acheter une chaine doré très fine mais je ne retrouve pas la ref
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Our Tiffanie J. expert answers you (20/10/2023 15:09:55)
Bonjour, vous pouvez voir les produits achetés dans votre compte client. Appuyez sur l'icone de votre compte puis dans mes produits commandés. Ensuite, vous pouvez filtrer par catégorie ou mot clé. Si cette référence n'apparaît toujours pas, c'est probablement qu'elle a été retiré de la vente. Bonne journée
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Your reviews (1)
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By Shira (posted on : 05/02/2023 )
Merci pour cette fiche clarifiante.
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Our Tiffanie J. expert answers you (06/02/2023 10:34:47)
Merci pour votre commentaire :)
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Perles & Co, Internet & E-Commerce company [14/09/2026] Any reproduction, representation, adaptation, in any form whatsoever, even partial, is prohibited, except for reproduction for private use not intended for collective use, representation in the family circle (art. L 122-5 CPI) and online publishing on condition that the source is mentioned and a link is included to the corresponding page of our site www.perlesandco.com.